With the arrival of fabulous February, the 2019’s resolution of visiting new place every month peeked. An introvert mind was seeking a place of comfort for the expedition, and what more comfortable spot than being with the group of friends (brothers?) made during an unforgettable golden era of Engineering. To convince this chunk of boys for a trip to Goa was not an uphill task, a few phone calls and the stage was set. They say, planning and executing a trip to Goa tests the real friendship. Well, I am proud to quote that, we did it twice! <mic drop>
In the senior year of Engineering, we (the chunk of boys) undertook a…
With the arrival of fabulous February, the 2019’s resolution of visiting new place every month peeked. An introvert mind was seeking a place of comfort for the expedition, and what more comfortable spot than being with the group of friends (brothers?) made during an unforgettable golden era of Engineering. To convince this chunk of boys for a trip to Goa was not an uphill task, a few phone calls and the stage was set. They say, planning and executing a trip to Goa tests the real friendship. Well, I am proud to quote that, we did it twice! <mic drop>
In the senior year of Engineering, we (the chunk of boys) undertook a week-long raid to mysterious lands of South India. We commenced the journey from the Silicon Valley of India, Bangalore to the Queen of hills, Kodaikanal. From the Tea house of India, Munnar to the Venice of the East, Alleppy. From the Kerala Metro, Cochin to the Scotland of the East, Ooty. From the wild tiger reserve, Bandipur to the city of palaces, Mysore. Concluding the jovial voyage at, the Pearl of the Orient, Goa.
This time, we picked up right where we left off — Goa. We booked the last weekend of February with plans to return on the night of Sunday. The journey via road from Pune to Panjim, that too in a bus of State Transport, in retrospective was not a good idea. The bus was late by almost 2 hours to depart from Pune, and with the restricted speed regulations and obligation to stop at every major town en route, the journey was far-stretched bringing Saturday afternoon to reach Goa.
Goa, the smallest state of India, former Portuguese colony for over 400 years, liberated in 1961 by Indian forces and conferred full statehood in 1987, offers beautiful beaches flocked by foreigners along with archaic Iberian-style churches and chapels giving illusion of being in an European country altogether. Goa is briefly grouped into two districts, the North and the South. Generally, the North is more crowded, lively and has more footprints of its Portuguese past whereas the South has slower pace of life and offers peaceful and calm beaches with lesser connectivity to the chaotic world.
Vagator Beach
Our itinerary initially included only the North. We had booked a home stay near Calangute beach for a night and a day. Once we reached the place and freshened up, the first thing we did was to find a mode of commutation throughout Goa, and the best mode is of course the bikes. Just submit any one document they request as deposit and pay INR 400 (About USD 6) for two days of rent. The safety gear is provided by the vendor, but the fuel is solely our responsibility. No strings attached to where you go with the bike, provided you return it on time as per the deal.
By 4 PM on Saturday, we set off for this long-awaited journey in Goa. First on the checklist was Chapora fort, about 15 km northwards from Calangute. Chapora fort, boasts its name based on nearby Chapora river, currently is in ruins. The fort was at the centre of conflict between the Portuguese and the Moguls and then the Marathas. Currently, it holds nothing but older fortifications barely standing the test of time. The fort also holds notable mention for hosting classic friendship scene of Bollywood movie Dil Chahta Hai. You would definitely listen its title track atop, as fellow tourist camaraderie love to recreate the scene looking into vast horizons the same way the Dil Chahta Hai trio did.
“We are like that sheep, we will soon set off to our destinations” – Dil Chahta Hai
Chapora fort is situated exactly in the middle of Chapora estuary on the right and Vagator beach on the left. If you are in Goa during September-January season, do not miss visiting Morjim beach, near the mouth of Chapora river, which are arribadas, the nesting site for Olive Ridley turtles. Another popular attraction in Morjim is the large numbers of Russian tourists. It’s such a popular spot for Russian tourists that Morjim is often nicknamed “Little Russia.”
Chapora estuary and Morjim beach
The golden time of the day, that too in Goa, the Sunset! We rushed down from the fort to the Vagator beach, one of the most beautiful beaches the North offers. Vagator also offers multitudes of adventurous water sports such as parasailing, jets ski’s motored rides and dolphin sighting tours. Apart from adventure activities, there are other leisure activities like sunbathing, strolling, evening shopping.
“Buddha on the streets of Goa” at foothills of Chapora Fort
We took a moment off and sat on the sands looking at the Sun taking dip into the Arabian Sea. The reddish yellow sky post sunset, roaring tides, screeching sea-gulls, distant chatters and giggles of tourists, the mind was at such a soothing place that I literally wished the time could have frozen. Alas! it is life, you have to move on!
The Sun signing out for the day!
From the Vagator beach, the spree of beaches starts southwards. Anjuna, Baga and Calangute (ABC!), you can visit any or all at your discretion, surely the experience would be life-size. We headed back to our home stay, refreshed and dived deep into the nightlife of Goa.
Goa is a heaven for seafood and liquor lovers. For pescetarians, it offers finger-licking seafood ranging from Kingfish, Pomfret, Baby Shark to Crabs, Prawns and Lobsters. We dined in a restaurant near Baga beach called “Crazy Crabs”, specializing in authentic Goan-styled crab dishes. We ordered Crab Dry Fry and Crab Masala Gravy, both requiring great pre-processing to remove the shells before you could indulge into the heavenly taste of it.
For liquor lovers (or bards!), Goa holds literally enough places where you can soak yourself into the pleasure of Madeira. But the best part for liquor enthusiasts from India is that, customs on liquor is way less than their states’, almost half than what they pay in rest of India. After enjoying the Goan cuisine, it was time for some pubbing and nightlife!
If you are disco lover, the North Goa offers you ample choices of bacchanalia to enjoy yourself in. The night bazaars of Goa holds native handicrafts, shell-crafts, garments and jewelries. Dive yourself into shopping for your loved ones, bargain hard, and above all, feel the spirit of Goa that never sleeps and never fails to amaze you!
We headed to Calangute beach, which was our neighborhood for few days. At 1 AM in the night, the beach has few bars and beach-top restaurants still open, serving you the needful, which you can savor with night’s starry sky, roaring high tides and cool breezes, some pop and rock playing in the background. Shutting your eyes and watching the time fly by, the day would end akin to a fairy tale.
A night on the Calangute beach amidst sky full of stars.
Sunday, started early morning with travelling on bikes amidst Goan alleys towards the Old Goa. Also known as Velha Goa, in the Western part of the state, a home to archaic and monumental sites from the Iberian past of Goa. Any traveler setting foot in Goa shall not miss the Sunday morning prayers taking place in the churches and chapels of the Old Goa.
Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa
We had on our bucket-list, the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the 1987 UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier. If you are wearing shorts on that day, I am afraid you are not allowed an entry inside, till the prayers are over. Post prayers, tourists are allowed to roam inside this 17th century church. Take a moment to seat in and think about this mighty Universe and its creator, religious views aside, even for atheists the place would serve as the soothing and gently calming surrounding.
Interior of the basilica.
In the vicinity of the Basilica, you can visit many peaceful places of worships namely The Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Se Cathedral, The Convent and The Church of St. John of God among others.
History aficionado? You are in for a treat! Across the road from the Basilica, The Archaeological Museum Of Goa, in the former colonial capital of Old Goa, a museum of Portuguese legacy of Goa, will surely drop your jaw in awe. The museum houses the relics and remains of Viceroyalty of Goa and her allegiance to Portugal since 17th century till late 20th century, a whopping 400 years of colonial history manifested in the form of museum.
After the pious start of the day, we were about to return on that night. But we were already in love with the winds of majestic Goa and totally in consensus, ready to sacrifice half the ticket price and add another day in itinerary to the South Goa. The journey of about 80 km southwards started with ecstasy of extended stay and no regret of gone hard-earned money. As they say, the journey is itself more beautiful than the destination. The bike trip on the roads, passing through Goan villages, boasting Portuguese-styled houses with a chapel in every end of an alley, was just a cherry on top! Ticked the bucket-list and resumed the journey southwards.
The destination in the South Goa was set to be Butterfly Beach. Remotely located in the leopard valley, visited only by a few and one of the cleanliest beaches of Goa. In about two hours we reached the place. The beach is located roughly 3 km inside the jungle, which is supposed to be home for the leopards, ergo be cautious while travelling post evening.
The name “Butterfly” is given because the beach is only about 200 m wide and enclosed by two mammoth monoliths, when seen from the top of the mountain, it looks just like a butterfly with blue head and grey wings. The motorized boat rides in near seas are available. We opted to climb atop the rocks and watch the roaring waves consistently hammer the strong and steady rocks.
Butterfly Beach, South GoaSunset blocked by the right flap of the “butterfly”!
As much as we love the sunsets, this time around the Sun was blocked by the right flap of this geographical butterfly, missing the magnificent sight. But, the best way to enjoy the company of buds and the beach is to race! Roughly, 100 m race on the beach amidst yellow sky, felt as if we were on a Jamaican beach. Some fell on face, some won, some shot these moments for the eternity of time. Another beautiful day ended with loads of memories.
On your marks, Set, GoA!
We commenced the return journey, first through the jungle with slim chances of spotting the leopard, then through the ghats of Southern Goa. As we traced our journey northwards, we went through towns of Margao and Colva. While returning back, we can see the night’s lit view of Atal Setu recently opened for public on Mandovi river.
Atal Setu Bridge, Kochi-Panvel Highway, Porvorim, Panjim
Sunday night and Baga beach, still a better love story than Twilight saga! We headed right after refreshing at home stay towards Baga beach, a few miles ahead of Calangute. The distant sound of Goan music, peaceful waves touching the feet and the feeling of these heavenly moments simply set the mood for thanking every best part of life and remembering the loved ones.
Listening to “Every Teardrop Is a Waterfall” by Coldplay, creating this memory in the brain, the next time I hear the song, it will nudge the brain to unconsciously teleport me back to this place and this feeling!
The chunk of boys!
Two days in Goa are not enough to cover all the places it offers for recreation. But, two days are more than enough to visit few places and create a truck-load of memories. As much hard as you try, there will always be something that will miss out in life, better way, stay where you are and savor the moment.
Wish we could turn back time, to the good old days!
And into the forests I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.
John Muir “John of the Mountains” and “Father of the National Parks”
With the new year’s resolution of having at least one getaway a month to nearby or to distant landscapes from the bucket list and try expressing the thoughts and experiences through blog honing the articulation skills, the year commenced with a plan to trek Vasota fort situated roughly at 150 km from Pune.
2019, a year already filled with excitements for me, ranging from final season of Game of Thrones, final fate of Avengers in Endgame, to deciding who will run this very country for the next five years. It started well with this expedition that too with a bunch of strangers and like-minded trekkers converged under one hood of Escapade Outdoors, a community of trekkers from Pune, availing such getaways to enthusiasts. For an ambivert, to go on a trek with a complete mix of camaraderie and then having the first go at scribbling about it in a blog was nothing short of serendipity.
The date was set as 12th January to depart for Vasota from Pune by night. Three-hour long bus journey on NH-4 was a regular one but the bus that was arranged somewhat less comfortable, with absence of a suspension system, confining passengers to have a good night’s nap. As Satara city was reached, it was an end of NH-4 route and start of countryside road with ever clear night sky full of stars twinkling above and vastly spread Kaas Plateau boasting its elegant flowery around.
The base camp was located near Bamnoli village on the banks of Koyna river backwaters. We reached the camp by 2 AM and it was 9°C. In the dark, with the warmth of bonfire and light of cellphone flashes, the instructors demonstrated the techniques of pitching the tents. All of the tents were double layered, the outer one being in place especially to protect from due and rain or snow for that matter. All tents were pitched and bonfire surrounded by the expeditioners, the night was set to be amazed by music of a guitarist and melodious voices.
Before the break of the dawn, all were up and freshening up for the adventures of the day lying ahead. Breakfast of pohe, in authentic Maharashtrian style with pinch of lemon, kick-started the journey from base camp to the fort. This journey has to be completed in a ferry with estimated time on board of two hours. The journey started with picturesque surrounding of lush hilltops and blue waters cut through but the ferry being motorized one, the engine hum continues to irritate the mood.
A brief halt at the forest department office for necessary permissions to graze in Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary and clearance post checking the belongings for any hunting weapons or flammable things, the sail continued. Upon the sail through backwaters for about one more hour, we reached at the foothills of Vasota jungle, dense and green with sunrays barely touching the ground.
The ascent started with the determination and hope of a breath-taking sight of Sahyadri mountain range. The trek is said to have difficulty level of medium to hard, depending upon the fitness and willingness. Through the forest we see age-old, wide trunks of mammoth trees like a miniaturized version of the Giant Sequoia. This corridor is said to have dwelt by Royal Bengal Tigers, but with the species listed endangered by IUCN, the beast can be barely counted on fingers. The forest is also home to Indian Bison, Indian Pangolin, Rock Python among others.
The terrain of Vasota can be grouped into three stages, first being slightly angled upwards with dense and thick forest cover, second being steeper and peeking out of forest cover and third being uphill with minimum room to step foot, very less forest cover and exposed to the wrath of the Sun.
First and half of the second stage is ascended with rookie excitement and youthful energy imagining the summit within reach, not even knowing what lies ahead. As the terrain goes steeper the fitness of the climber comes into picture. With minutes of rests alongside rocks, catching breath and drinking water, we continue to ascend. The more you halt, the more you drain, keeping going inch by inch up is the key!
After about two hours of trek, finally touched the rock solid entrance of Vasota fort. The very first moment, searched for a shady tree and laid back without even knowing the apparels getting dusty, released the sigh of reaching the destination after much of efforts. The first thing was to have lunch brought from the base in backpack under the shade and get hydrated again for sight-seeing the fort for next few hours before the descent begins.
We finished the lunch and with the cold and clear water from springs atop the hill, rebooted the body for the rest of expedition. The fort was almost in ruins with few of the rock structures barely standing the test of time. Vasota was built in 12th century AD and then under the reign of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, renamed as Vyaghragad (The fort of the tiger). In 1818, when the Britons tightened their grip over the whole of India, finally defeating the Marathas, destroyed every fort they could get their hands on, thereby ensuring these forts will not become nerve centres of rebellion. Vasota was no exception, bombarded heavily with British artillery, its glory was turned into ashes. The core structure though is still standing tall with all its might.
A well on edgy side of the fort is said to have a mysterious depth with many failed attempts to measure the same. The local guides’ mythical belief that the depth is throughout the mountain at the same level as of Koyna, but in practicality it seems obscure. The water level of well though is said to be at constant, no matter the intensity of monsoon, reason being underground maze of springs ensuring apt supply of fresh water throughout year.
Amazed with the history and awestruck by the fact that these are the legacies of our very descendants who fought hard for their motherland until very last breath and here we are sweating our hearts out to barely reach the peak, the descent began. The journey downwards was not as arduous as the ascent. Only gruesome task was to find the way downward, as flock of mountaineers flooded the path after the trek. Rolling feet on the pebbles, descending with the support of boulevard of trees, we reached the ferry to sail back to the base.
The sail backwards amidst the sunset over Koyna, was nothing short of elegance as that of Alapuzza. Having experienced both, this ferry ride was as placid as Alapuzza’s. During the sail, unconsciously took a nap on-board, the volunteers joined the nap too. That sleep and the serene surrounding, just ended the day on glorious note.
Whenever you travel to a new place, listen to a song on loop — a song that you wouldn’t have heard before. This nudges your brain to unconsciously make a connection between what you see and what you hear. The link would be so strong that even after many years, that particular song will have the power to teleport you back to that place.
Throughout this expedition to the apex of Vasota, I had “Iridescent” by Linkin Park on loop. Post journey when I listen to this song, brain unconsciously teleport back to the star gazing through tents, serene sail through Koyna, ascending trek and soothing journey back to the base amidst sunset. Songs being the teleportation device here, no less than a sci-fi concept.
Footprints on the Moon 